Of Dirhams and Dishes: Migrant Remittances, Return Migrants, Middle Eastern Foods, and Contemporary Foodscapes Across the Kerala-Gulf Corridor

This project examines how return migrants, as well as fiscal and social remittances, have contributed to the emergence and expansion of restaurants and eateries serving Middle Eastern food in Kerala. Through this assessment, it explores the connections between the key themes of foodways, food systems, and the productive use of migrant remittances. The project addresses the following broad set of questions: (1) How have return migrants facilitated the establishment and expansion of Middle Eastern restaurants and kitchens in Kerala, and what factors influenced their investment decisions in the food sector? (2) In what ways do fiscal and social remittances contribute to the capital, infrastructure, and operational sustainability of these eateries? (3) What economic opportunities do migrant-funded and migrant-operated food places generate in terms of employment, entrepreneurship, and local supply chains? (4) How do return migrants’ experiences and exposure to Middle Eastern food cultures shape the menu offerings and culinary practices of these food places? (5) How do government policies and local business regulations shape the establishment and operations of migrant-funded and operated restaurants in Kerala? This study employs a mixed-methods approach by integrating quantitative surveys and qualitative ethnographic fieldwork in three locations in Kerala. It consists a structured survey of 150 Middle Eastern restaurants, in-depth interviews with restaurant operators and government officials, as well as participant observation at food establishments.